Fish tacos thread of making!

Started by Mmm_fish_tacos, Nov 12, 2015, 04:03 AM

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the-pi-guy

Think I will scrap my idea.  

Pi 3 Case for 5" Touch screen by lowboydrvr - Thingiverse

Use this for the screen, and the system.  Maybe some other time I will design a case for the controller and battery.

darkknightkryta

I accidentally had the sparkfun ATX bench board on when I plugged the pico power supply into it.  Either the PSU fried or the AC connector fried.  I doubt the AC connector fried.  It was weird cause the 3.3v and the 5v rail were working right.  The 12v rail was going at 19v.  I turned it off and unplugged it.  It won't go on now.  I might have to order a legit one from the pico's website.  Mine came from an electronic store.

Mmm_fish_tacos

Dang, i had that happen to a arduino.

darkknightkryta

Quote from: Mmm_fish_tacos on Aug 03, 2017, 08:03 PMDang, i had that happen to a arduino.
I was trying to see if any voltage was coming into the power supply so I was testing voltage on the power leads to the board.  It sparked.  I emailed the electronic company to see if they'll send me a new one.

darkknightkryta

Turns out the laptop charger I bought was 19v output.  It's why the bench board read the 12V as 19.  But I'm still not sure why it stopped working when I turned off the PSU.  The guy who I was talking to said it was the fuses, but the fuses are rated for 5A and the charger gives out 3.34A.  So the benchtop power board should be fine.  The PSU isn't though, and he said he's not going to give me a new one.  I don't know if I should get a legit one with the proper power brick (I"m bringing the laptop one back).  Though, I was looking at the fuses and none of them look burnt.  I wish I had an ATX PSU lying around to test the benchtop with.  Is there a way to test fuses?  Like, can I check resistance or something through them?

Mmm_fish_tacos

If using the multimeter to measure ohms, the reading should match (or nearly match) the one provided when you touched the two leads. If the fuse is blown, it will not read anything at all, or the meter will display O.L. depending on the brand and type of meter you are using.If using a digital multimeter set to measure continuity, the meter should beep continuously as you hold the leads to the ends of the fuse. That means the circuit is complete. If it does not do so, the fuse is blown

darkknightkryta

#276
Quote from: Mmm_fish_tacos on Aug 04, 2017, 02:26 PMIf using the multimeter to measure ohms, the reading should match (or nearly match) the one provided when you touched the two leads. If the fuse is blown, it will not read anything at all, or the meter will display O.L. depending on the brand and type of meter you are using.If using a digital multimeter set to measure continuity, the meter should beep continuously as you hold the leads to the ends of the fuse. That means the circuit is complete. If it does not do so, the fuse is blown
Yeah I measured the fuses.  They're fine.  It's the PSU.  I might order another one.  I'm still deciding if I should waste the space and get an arcade PSU.  Though I honestly don't like the way the AC input and DC output are on the same side.  Makes wiring really weird.  I was contemplating making a two story housing out of plexiglass to mount everything.  I had everything setup nicely though.  I might see if I can find fuses that handle 6 amps.  CPS2 boards need:
The CPS-II will draw appx. 3.5 A from +5 V.

* The CPS-II will draw appx. 0.4 A from +12 V.

* The JROK draws about 0.2 A from +5 V.

* A typical +12 V fan draws about 0.1 A.

The whole thing needs 4.2 amps so the benchtop might not be able to handle the power draw since CPS2 boards pull in more power at start up and everything might spike higher than 5V.  Though there isn't a power supply that the pico psu that would match.  I'd still need 5V.  Decisions decisions.

One more question Tacos, I was measuring the LED.  Can LEDs be tested by measuring resistance?  I wanted to see if the LED was burned (It looks fine.)  When I tested resistance it wasn't giving me 0.  It was giving me the O.L

Mmm_fish_tacos

What setting is your meter set on? O.l. is overload.

darkknightkryta

Quote from: Mmm_fish_tacos on Aug 04, 2017, 03:31 PMWhat setting is your meter set on? O.l. is overload.
I Just put it to test resistance.  Default air is O.L.  

Mmm_fish_tacos

Quote from: darkknightkryta on Aug 04, 2017, 03:35 PMI Just put it to test resistance.  Default air is O.L.  
Hmm. Does it work with Continuity?

darkknightkryta

Quote from: Mmm_fish_tacos on Aug 04, 2017, 03:40 PMHmm. Does it work with Continuity?
Yeah it works.  The LED I'm testing isn't working, but it's not burned out either.  So I was wondering if testing resistance through an LED is the right way of testing.

Mmm_fish_tacos

Id say the led is fine then. Its probaby along the trace thats burnt.

darkknightkryta

Quote from: Mmm_fish_tacos on Aug 04, 2017, 03:51 PMId say the led is fine then. Its probaby along the trace thats burnt.
I'm testing the pins on the LED.

Mmm_fish_tacos

The led is mounted on the card?

darkknightkryta

Quote from: Mmm_fish_tacos on Aug 04, 2017, 03:59 PMThe led is mounted on the card?
I soldered the LED in.  So I was testing the pins.  The bench was a diy kit.